RESIDENTIAL PAVING INSTALLATION
Paving is typically laid on either a flexible base (compacted road base) or rigid base (concrete). Both methods
are commonly used and when followed properly and in the right application provide a good long term solution.

It is important to stay with the one method through your installation and to follow each step. For more technical
information refer to the Concrete Masonry Association of Australia's (CMAA) Concrete Flag Pavements - Design
and Construction Guide, reference MA44.

This information is provided for general guidance only and in no way replaces that of a professional design
consultant such as an engineer. C&M Brick accepts no liability for its use in part or in whole.



LAYING INSTRUCTIONS

LAYING ON A COMPACTED ROAD-BASE SUB-BASE (FLEXIBLE)

Step 1:
Excavate your area to allow for a compacted road-base sub-base of 75mm, then 20 to 25mm of washed coarse paving
sand and the thickness of the paver.

Step 2:
Ensure your sub-base is flat and firm. If your area needs to be built up then do this using compacted road-base
in 75mm layers.

Step 3:
Fill the area with washed bedding sand (approximately 1 cubic metre of sand per 20 square metres of paving) and
screed to a flat, even surface.

Step 4:
Begin laying pavers from one corner. Don't walk on the sand, walk on the pavers already laid.

Step 5:
After completion of laying, the next step is to compact the pavers. Before compacting, spread washed beach sand or locking
sand over the pavers to minimise movement in the pavement when compacting. A flat heavy board placed across the pavers
and hit with a mallet will suffice. For pavers of 50mm or greater thickness, a protected vibrating plate machine should be used
for best results.

Step 6:
If a vibrating plate has been used to compact the pavers then it is a good idea to also vibrate some more jointing sand into
position. Do not use a sand and cement mix for jointing as staining will occur which is difficult to remove.

Step 7:
Wash the excess sand off the pavers with water. This will help set the pavers.

Step 8:
Drainage is most important for a successful pavement. Minimum fall over the area should be 10mm per linear metre.


LAYING ON A CONCRETE SUB-BASE (RIGID)

Step 1:
The concrete sub-base should be a minimum of 75mm thick of 20MPa concrete and incorporate F62 reinforcing mesh.
Care should be taken to slope the concrete sub-base towards the selected points of drainage. A minimum of 2%
slope is recommended.

Step 2:
The pavers should be laid on a wet mortar bed of 15-25mm thickness. The mortar should be mixed at a 6 to 1 ratio
of sand and cement with a moisture content similar to that used to lay bricks. In warmer conditions it is advisable to
dampen the concrete base and the underside of pavers prior to laying so that the moisture in the mortar bed is not
allowed to dry too quickly. Do not place and screed more mortar bed than that required for 30 minutes of paver placement
at any time. This is most critical on warmer days. Do not lay pavers on a sand bed where there is a concrete sub-base
unless there is adequate drainage of the concrete sub-base. Refer to the CMAA's Concrete Flag Pavements - Design
and Construction Guide, reference MA44.

Step 3:
Pavers should be laid to form a smooth finished surface by using a level and lightly tapping with a rubber mallet when
being laid.

Step 4:
C&M pavers should be laid with a 3mm gap. A fine clean sand or specialised pavement jointing sand is recommended
to fill any small gaps between the pavers.

Step 5:
If any mortar is spilled over pavers during construction remove immediately using a clean sponge and water.

Step 6:
Once the pavement is finished do not traffic for 48 hours.

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PAVER CUTTING
You will generally find that some cutting of pavers will be required to fit into specific areas. An angle grinder with a masonry
blade is suitable for good results. On jobs where a high number of cuts are required or the paving units are large, it is easier
to hire a brick saw with a diamond blade.

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PAVING EDGING
It is important to have a good edge restraint to stop the pavers from spreading and to ensure that the bedding sand is not
washed away. Here are two general techniques.

By embedding a paver on edge in concrete	By embedding the outside paver in concrete to approx half the height of the paver and back filling with suitable garden material.

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SWIMMING POOLS
• C&M pavers have a non slip surface which is ideal for swimming pool surrounds
• C&M pavers while being strong and durable have a soft feel, making them comfortable under bare feet or for sitting
• along pool edges
• C&M manufacture some pavers specifically for salt resistant applications, necessary for around salt chlorinated swimming
• pools. This range varies between States so please consult your local C&M distributor or C&M product guide for specific
• localised advice
• For added protection C&M recommend sealing pavers likely to be subjected to salt attack.

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MAINTENANCE
Pavers will require some ongoing maintenance to keep looking in a pristine condition. Dirt and dust should regularly be
swept whilst any weed growth should be sprayed and controlled. Ants should not be allowed to nest in base materials.

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CLEANING
All pavers will require cleaning from time to time. Oil, rust, efflorescence and other stains can detract from the appearance
of the paver. Proprietary cleaning products for concrete pavers (and retaining walls) are readily available. Please contact
your local distributor or C&M for further information. Do not use Hydrochloric Acid.

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SEALING
If a more protective surface is required then C&M suggest you seal your paving. There are a number of sealers specifically
for concrete paving so please contact your local distributor or C&M for further information.

NB: All coloured product should be ordered at the one time to reduce the risk of batch variation. No claims will be accepted
once product has been installed.

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PATTERNS OF LAYING


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CALCULATE PAVERS NEEDED

The quantity of pavers needed will depend on the area to be paved, and the paver chosen.

Work out the area to be paved in square metres. Length(m) x width(m) = area(m2).

For rectangular areas: eg. 3m x 5m = 15m2	For triangular areas: 1/2 x base (m) x height (m) = area (m2) e.g.1/2 x 3m x 4m = 6m2	For odd shaped areas: break into sections. Area 1: 4m x 3m = 12m2 Area 2: 6m x 3m = 18m2 Area 3: 1/2m x 6m x 2m = 6m2 Total area to be paved = 36m2

Note 1:
For those who calculate using feet and inches calculate the total area into square feet by using the same method
as above and then multiply by .0929 to convert to square metres.

Note 2:
When calculating pavers needed add an additional 5%. Allowing for complexity of the design, cuts and breaks.

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TIPS & TRICKS FOR PAVING
• Use string lines where possible
• Certain products have the grain running the same way:
- Budgetpave
- Flagpave
- Stradapave
- Stradascape
- Stradastone
- Havenbrick
- Havenpave
- Havenslab
• Work off as many pallets as possible when laying, to blend the product
• Blended product e.g. sunset glow, needs to be worked down the pallet not across. This will give it a more even blending
• Imagine the finished product! Have all half cuts or full pavers at doorways & focal points, when setting out your paving
• There is no such thing as too much drainage
• When laying up hill, start at the bottom & sand in as you go. This helps avoid the lines moving with gravity
• The rail & screed method of preparing sand for laying is the most effective
• Compact sand, not the paver in all non-commercial paving
• Always use washed river sand or similar for all paving projects

NOTE: Ensure you order all you need at once & include an allowance for breakages & cutting.

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